How to Communicate with Garment Factories Using a Tech Pack (Reduce Revision Rounds)

Poor factory communication is the single biggest cause of failed samples, missed deadlines, and over-budget production runs. The most effective communication tool in fashion manufacturing is the tech pack — but only if it is structured, version-controlled, and used correctly. This guide explains how to use your tech pack as an active communication instrument throughout the production process, not just a document you send once and forget. WHY COMMUNICATION BREAKS DOWN BETWEEN BRANDS AND FACTORIES Most sampling problems are not caused by incompetent factories. They are caused by: 1. Incomplete documentation — The brand sends a sketch and nothing else. 2. Ambiguous specifications — "Navy blue" instead of "Pantone 289 C." 3. No version control — The factory is working from an outdated tech pack. 4. Email-based back-and-forth — Decisions are buried in email threads that new team members cannot find. 5. Language and terminology gaps — The factory team interprets "French seam" differently than the designer intended. A well-structured tech pack solves problems 1, 2, and 3. Good workflow habits solve 4 and 5. STEP 1 — SEND A COMPLETE TECH PACK WITH THE INITIAL INQUIRY When approaching a factory with a new style, send a complete tech pack — not just a design image or mood board. A complete tech pack at inquiry stage allows the factory to: - Quote accurately (they know the fabric, trim, construction, and complexity) - Identify materials they can source locally vs items that need to be imported - Estimate lead time based on the actual construction Sending an incomplete document forces the factory to make assumptions in their quote. When production starts and the real requirements become clear, costs and timelines change — always unfavourably. STEP 2 — USE PANTONE CODES FOR EVERY COLOUR, WITHOUT EXCEPTION The most common cause of wrong sample colours is the use of descriptive colour names instead of Pantone codes. Wrong: "Dark olive green" Right: "Pantone 7491 C (Olive)" Pantone codes are universal. A factory in Bangladesh, Vietnam, or Portugal will all match the same Pantone reference to the same colour. A descriptive name will be interpreted differently in every location. If you do not have Pantone colour chips, use the Pantone Connect app or website to find the closest match to your target colour. STEP 3 — VERSION-CONTROL EVERY UPDATE Never send an updated tech pack without changing the version number and updating the revision history. Standard versioning practice: - v1.0 — Initial release sent to factory - v1.1 — Minor correction (e.g., zipper colour changed) - v2.0 — Major change (e.g., construction method revised) When you send v1.1, always explicitly state: "Please discard v1.0 and use this version going forward." Do not assume the factory will notice the version number change. Name your PDF files with the version: StyleNumber_TechPack_v1.1.pdf STEP 4 — SUBMIT A DETAILED SAMPLE COMMENT SHEET WITH EVERY REVISION When you receive a sample from the factory, do not give feedback over the phone or in informal emails. Write a formal sample comment sheet. A sample comment sheet includes: - Style number and sample version (e.g., "Proto 1") - Date received - Numbered list of comments — each referencing a specific measurement, construction detail, or material - For each comment: what was found vs what was specified vs what needs to change - Photo references for each issue where possible Example comment format: "Comment 7: Chest measurement (POM 3). Found: 52 cm. Spec: 54 cm. Required action: Increase pattern by 2 cm at chest seam. Ref: Tech pack v1.0, Spec Sheet, Row 3." This format leaves no ambiguity. The factory knows exactly what to fix, where it is specified, and what the target is. STEP 5 — CONSOLIDATE COMMUNICATION IN ONE CHANNEL Email threads become chaotic when multiple people are involved. Use a single channel for all factory communication on each style. Options: - ThreadPack's sharing feature — Send a shareable link to your tech pack. Comments and revisions stay associated with the document. - A project management tool (e.g., Notion, Asana) with an email integration - A shared Google Drive folder with a naming convention for every file Whatever channel you choose, enforce it. When someone sends a WhatsApp message changing a spec, require them to update the tech pack and send it through the official channel. STEP 6 — DEFINE APPROVED SUPPLIERS IN THE BOM One of the most overlooked causes of material quality problems is giving the factory an open choice of suppliers. If your BOM says "woven interlining" without a supplier reference, the factory will use whatever they have in stock — which may not meet your quality expectations. For each material in your BOM, include: - First choice: your approved supplier and their reference number - Second choice (optional): an approved alternative - Note: "Do not substitute without written approval" This language protects you legally and operationally. Factories that substitute materials without approval are responsible for any resulting quality issues. STEP 7 — AGREE ON MEASUREMENT TOLERANCE BEFORE PRODUCTION Tolerance is the acceptable deviation from the spec measurement. If your chest measurement is specified as 54 cm with a tolerance of ±1 cm, samples measuring 53–55 cm are acceptable. Always agree on tolerances before sampling begins. Without agreed tolerances: - The factory may ship garments that technically "pass" their own QC but fail yours. - Disputes arise over whether a shipment is acceptable. Include tolerances in the spec sheet section of your tech pack and highlight them in your initial communication with the factory. COMMON TECH PACK COMMUNICATION MISTAKES AND HOW TO AVOID THEM Mistake 1: Sending a design mood board and calling it a tech pack. Fix: A mood board communicates aesthetic direction, not production specification. Always accompany it with a proper tech pack. Mistake 2: Making verbal changes to specs during factory visits. Fix: All changes must be documented in the tech pack within 24 hours of any visit. Send the updated version immediately. Mistake 3: Sending the tech pack once and never updating it. Fix: The tech pack is a living document. Every sample comment that results in a spec change must be reflected in the tech pack. Mistake 4: Using different colour references in different sections. Fix: Choose one colour reference system (Pantone C) and use it consistently throughout the BOM, colourway guide, and construction details. Mistake 5: Assuming the factory will ask if they do not understand something. Fix: Factories often make a best guess rather than ask a question that might embarrass them or delay their quote. Write specs that are clear enough not to require interpretation. USING THREADPACK FOR FACTORY COMMUNICATION ThreadPack is designed to be shared with factories, not just used internally. Features that support factory communication: - Shareable links — Send a live link to your tech pack instead of attaching a PDF. The factory always sees the latest version. - Version history — Every saved version is logged so you can prove what was sent and when. - Comment-ready PDF export — Exported PDFs include all spec details in a factory-readable format. - Collaborative access — Invite your factory to view (but not edit) your tech pack directly in the platform. FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Q: How many sample rounds should I budget for? A: A well-documented tech pack should produce a first sample (proto) that is 70–80% correct. A second round (fit sample) should bring you to 95%+. Budget for 2–3 rounds. If you are consistently needing more than 3 rounds, the problem is usually the completeness of your tech pack or the clarity of your feedback. Q: Should I visit the factory before production? A: For orders over 500 units or high-complexity garments, yes. A factory visit before the start of production (called a "pre-production meeting" or PPM) allows you to confirm materials, review construction methods in person, and build relationship capital that makes all subsequent communication easier. Q: My factory says the tech pack is "too detailed" — is that a problem? A: It is rare but can happen. Some small factories are accustomed to working from minimal information and find detailed tech packs unfamiliar. This is a sign that either the factory needs training, or you need a factory with higher technical capacity. A professional factory should welcome detailed documentation. Q: Can I share a ThreadPack tech pack with a factory in another country? A: Yes. ThreadPack is web-based and accessible from any country. The shareable link works in any browser without any account required on the factory's side.